Loèche-les-Bains. I bet that under this name, only few people will look for the highest Alpine spa on the map in Switzerland, which has had a great reputation for centuries. But Leukerbad sounds familiar, doesn’t it? This picturesque alpine town is located in the canton of Wallis at an altitude of 1,402 meters above sea level and has just under 1,400 inhabitants.
It is small in size, yet offers a wealth of opportunities for nature lovers and relaxation. Whether you’re looking for great skiing, beautiful hiking and biking trails, or want to relax in the hot springs and thermal baths, Leukerbad is the place to be.
NOTE: This article was written in collaboration with My Leukerbad AG and Wandermagazin SCHWEIZ. All opinions and insights are my own.
How to get to Leukerbad
Leukerbad is located in the canton of Wallis in the southwestern part of Switzerland.
By public transport: The nearest train station is in Leuk. Trains arrive several times an hour from both Sierre’s direction and Visp’s opposite direction. In Leuk, change to the 471 bus, which runs every half hour and takes you to Leukerbad.
By car: in the direction from Bern/Berner Oberland, you can use the Lötschberg Autoverlad transfer (car transport service) or detour the A9 motorway. From Leuk, you’ll have an adventurous climb full of serpentines up to Leukerbad.
On foot: The adventurous can hike into Leukerbad over the Gemmi Pass from Kandersteg, which connects Wallis with the Berner Oberland. This stunning high alpine trail dates back thousands of years and offers spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.
Leukerbad – the history of the spa destination in a nutshell
The thermal springs in Leukerbad have been known since Roman times. Every day, 3.9 million liters of hot water (51 °C) flow from 65 thermal springs. These thermal springs have led to tourism development in Leukerbad, making it one of Switzerland’s largest spa and wellness resorts.*
Although Wikipedia* claims that the oldest hotel in Leukerbad is the Maison Blanche from the 17th century, an information board in the town states that the first guesthouse, “Weisses Haus” was built in the village square in 1478, even before the local parish church. During the 18th century, Leukerbad was hit by an avalanche four times. Already in 1850, Leukerbad had seven hotels and guesthouses and thus became a pioneer in developing mountain and spa tourism in Switzerland. No wonder Johan Wolfgang von Goethe visited here in 1779, and a century later, the writers Guy de Maupassant and Mark Twain crossed over to Leukerbad via the aforementioned Gemmipass.
Between 1910 and 1920, an average of 17,000 guests were counted. In 1916, the figure was over 20,000 visitors amid the First World War. In 1915 a cogwheel railway was built between Leuk and Leukerbad, but the line was closed in 1967 (today the former station houses a ski school). Only in the 1960s did Leukerbad become a destination for ski tourism. 1957, the Leukerbad-Gemmi Pass cable car was opened, and in 1970 – 72, the Torrent-Bahn cable car was built.
5 activities not to be missed in Leukerbad:
For a small town like Leukerbad, there is lot to do. Here’s a rundown of how we spent a wonderful two days here.
1. Monster Ride Torrent
Fancy an adrenaline rush to start your weekend? You can rent giant scooters here if you take the Torrent-Bahn cable car to the Rinderhütte. The staff will help you choose the fitting helmets and give you instructions on operating the scooter. This isn’t too difficult for an adult, but more minor children – the scooters are suitable for children aged 6 and up – might have trouble pressing the brakes on properly. Or their palms will soon ache from constantly braking on the winding gravel path. I recommend bringing cycling gloves, preferably with gel padding to cushion the shock.
Afterward, 10 kilometers of adrenaline-pumping downhill combined with stunning alpine panoramas will take your breath away. You can choose between two routes: Torrent – Flaschen or Torrent – Leukerbad. For more minor children, the less demanding route to Flaschen is said to be more suitable, but we headed straight for the center of Leukerbad due to our other schedule. I write center because you also ride along the spa promenade at the end.
2. Thermal baths Leukerbad
The impressive Leukerbad Therme complex was opened in 1980. Here, you can relax in 10 different thermal pools with temperatures ranging from 28 °C to 43 °C, fed by mineral water from local springs. Children will appreciate the two water slides or the grassy area with play elements, while you will enjoy the whirlpools, massage jets, and many other wellness facilities, including a restaurant and a water bar. You can also visit the sauna area, which has different types of saunas, steam baths, a brine bath, a vitarium, and a relaxation room.
The Leukerbad Therme area is a bit like a maze, so finding your way around may take a while. But I guarantee you’ll enjoy perfect relaxation in the warm water here (yes, even in the hot summer, you’ll enjoy the warm water, trust me!) crowned with views of the stunning mountain scenery. Remember that no photos are allowed in the area, so you’ll have to keep all these experiences in your memory only.
If you want to try other local spas, head to the Walliser Alpentherme & Spa or the Therme 51°.
3. Thermal spring trail: the Dala Gorge and Lake Majingsee
What would a family weekend be without a good hike? You know me… A classic in Leukerbad is the route in the Dala River Gorge, over a 600-metre-long suspended metal footbridge. The metal structure is safe, and the route is short, so you don’t have to worry about going here even with the smallest hikers. About halfway along the route, a small casserole is attached to the rope, and you can use a pulley to scoop water from the river into it and see how warm the water is.
In less than 30 minutes, an impressive waterfall awaits you at the end of the gorge, where you will climb up the stairs with a 45-degree slope from the bottom to the top.
At this point, you can either return to Leukerbad (it’s best to take it via the famous Buljes restaurant) or continue on to Lake Majingsee. Don’t forget your swimsuit if you’re heading out in the summer. The lake is a great place to cool off on hot summer days. I will write about this hike in detail in my next article.
4. Gemmibahn
The Gemmibahn cable car will take you up to 2,350 meters above sea level, where you will find a fantastic viewpoint at the top with a telescope in the old cable car cabin and the popular photo spot of the Grand Tour of Switzerland. There is also a hotel at the top where we had a drink and lunch in their restaurant. The food offerings were varied and quite affordable for Swiss prices. The restaurant, which has large windows and a terrace with a viewing platform, gives you a spectacular view of the highest peaks in the Alps, including the Matterhorn. There is also a large playroom for children.
If you fancy another hike, continue from the summit to Lake Daubensee and take a two-hour circuit around it. You will find several small beaches at the lake where you can refresh yourself. We headed to the lake and took the small Pendelbahn Daubensee cable car back up.
PS: If you don’t feel like taking the cable car to the top of Gemmi, you can join the Gemmirunning, which is a 5km run from Leukerbad to the top. For more information on how to participate and what it entails, check out the Gemmi Running page.
5. Walk through the village
As a proper visitor to the spa, you must also explore the town. The center captivates you with its picturesque atmosphere, where traditional Alpine architecture mixes with the “modern” construction of the late last century. The narrow streets are lined with historic wooden houses that give the town an authentic Swiss charm; you’ll find nice cafes, restaurants, shops selling souvenirs or local products, and plenty of hotels. And speaking of hotels…
Hotel Alpenblick Leukerbad
The undeniable advantage of this picturesque Alpine-style hotel (geraniums included) is its proximity to the thermal baths. As part of your accommodation package, you get free access to the Leukerbad Therme, including the sauna and steam baths. You don’t have to worry about going out in your hotel bathrobe (which the kids didn’t want, they were long and would drag them along the ground, even though it’s only a few dozen meters).
In addition to free access to the spa, your stay includes free access to the GemmiBahn cable car and the Leukerbad Card Plus, which gives you free use of the area’s local Ringjet bus and other bus routes. In addition, you can enjoy a wide range of sports activities at the local sports center (including tennis, squash, badminton, mini golf, table tennis, or ice skating) and, in winter, access to the Erli Snowpark.
Needless to say, in winter the Hotel Alpenblick is a great base for your skiing fun – whether you’re hitting the slopes in the Torrent area (yes, where the scooter route starts) or cross-country skiing on the frozen Daubensee lake.
*Source: My Switzerland, Wikipedia
